Rabbitat
The Key to Survival
by Hearld Dalton
Habitat is the key to rabbit survival. Rabbits
need the same elements for survival as humans:
Food, Water, cover for protection, and areas to
reproduce and bear young. The amount and
condition of its habitat is the most important
factor determining how many rabbits survive in a
particular area. If any of the habitat factors are
lacking it will limit the number of survivors and is
called the limiting factor.

FOOD: Rabbits eat specific foods, regardless of
other foods that are available. Some plants have
more nutritional value than others, and this will
change according to the time of year, and
because of these changes, both the quantity and
quality of the food are important. The first part in
improving your rabbit habitat will be defining the
plant life that already exists. Instead of
duplicating what is already there one should try
to supplement the existing food supply by
increasing the diversity of plant species. If you
already have plenty of honeysuckle and clover
then you should look at adding some ryegrass,
wheat, oats, snow peas or some other plant
favored by rabbits.
COVER: Rabbits need cover to protect them while feeding, sleeping, loafing, breeding and traveling.
Cover can take many forms, such as vegetation, burrows, man made shelters, rocks and other features.
Brush piles can be made for cover as well as leaving plants for cover. Honeysuckle, multiflora rose,
privet hedge, and low growing shrubs can be used for cover. Leaving fencerows grown -up and
planting a few hedgerows are great ways of providing cover.

WATER: Rabbits need water, and some sources of water are surface water, dew, snow, and succulent
vegetation. A good place to put your food and cover plots is near the water, a pond, creek, river or
spring. When putting your plots near water you are creating a good habitat.

LOCATION: The locations of your plots are critical. Rabbits are normally edge feeders that prefer not to
venture out to far into the open to feed. A long narrow strip of food with cover on each side is better
than a large square plot. A good spot for food plots are under power lines and in old logging roads. If
they aren't wide enough for good light penetration then trim some limbs back and cut some small trees
to open it up and use what you cut for a brush pile. Create an area about 20 feet wide. The carrying
capacity of these long strips is very good. Anytime your rabbit population gets above the carrying
capacity the rabbits will die from starvation or lack of cover. When rabbits are to numerous, competing
for food and cover, there will be some damage to the habitat; therefore, trapping and releasing more
rabbits in an area will usually mean death unless you improve the habitat first. The only time releasing
more rabbits is going help is when the limiting factor is predators. The best way to increase rabbit
numbers is to increase the carrying capacity and this is the intent of this article: to help others in
improving rabbit habitat. Having now identified the best area for some food and cover plots it is time to
start the work.
The first thing would be to decide what vegetation you are going
add, and this is very important. If you are going add legumes such
as: ladino clover, crimson clover, white clover, annual lespedeza,
serecia lespedeza, alfalfa or snow peas then the fertilizer required
will be much lower than for grains like wheat, rye, millet, oats and
barley. The planning stages being done, now take soil samples from
several different areas of the plot and have soil test ran, following
the directions of the test for proper fertilizer and lime requirements
for the crop you are sowing. This is the correct way of doing it, but
for those that do not want to go thru the aggravation or have the
time for testing I will make some suggestions. Most areas need
some lime applied, watch for plants like sedge grass, cedar trees,
and moss these are all plants that is suggesting the need for lime.
Adding 500 lbs per acre of lime is a good start; get the pellitized lime it is much easier to apply and a
lot healthier on you. Add 200 -250 lbs per acre of fertilizer to grains or 75 lbs per acre for the
legumes. Use a complete fertilizer like 12-24-24 on the grains (note: if you use 6-12-12 you need to
use twice as much) use a low nitrogen fertilizer for the legumes like a 6-18-24. Often people use a
combination of vegetation, I like using some clover, serecia, turnips mixed in with some perennial rye
and timothy. Use about 1/2 lb of clover, 1 lb of serecia and 1/4 lb of turnips with 25 lbs of perennial
rye and 5 lbs of timothy per an acre of ground. So this would cover 2 strips 25 ft wide by 850 ft long.

The fertilizer and lime may be applied before the ground is tilled or after. The ground can be tilled
with a tiller turned with a moldboard plow and disked or just cut up with a disk harrow or bog. If
there is unwanted vegetation it may be sprayed with a non-selective herbicide like glysophate
(Round-up) or diquat, or it may be turned under like a cover crop and then harrow up into a
seedbed. ATV 's can often be used for these projects, there are disk, fertilize spreaders and seeders
available for the ATV and sometimes they can be rented. Work up your seedbed as loose as feasible
and drag it down smooth with some type of drag and then sow the seed. Now an important part of
seeding is often over looked, the seed need be embedded in the soil so run a culipacker over the
seeded area or you can run a roller over them or track them in with your tractor or ATV.

Another very effective way of seeding is by slicing or drilling the seed directly in ground. Slicers and
seeders can often be rented at farm supplies and usually they charge by the acre and they can also
be rented at rental agencies. My final recommendation is before you do much on your own check
with your local Natural Resource Agency, Wildlife Biologist, Agriculture Agent or Soil Conservationist
for assistance. Their job is public service; they are there to help you and will be happy to do so if you
ask, but they don't know what you need until you tell them. Ask if there are any programs that can
help you with your project. They may provide assistance with labor, use of machinery or help
purchase supplies or just be able to give advice, but I'm sure they will provide you with literature
better than this article. I have learned one very important thing being a professional horticulturist.

What you know and remember is not as important as knowing how and where to get the right
information when you need it. If I'm lucky maybe I'll get to hunt in someone's improved habitat.